Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park – Camping, Hiking and Waterfalls

Camping at Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park – August 13 -17, 2012

We pulled into the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park by mid afternoon on the 13th and checked into our site at the Union Bay Campground. We were surprised to find the campground already about 3/4 full. It seemed like every morning about half of the sites were vacated, but by evening the campground would fill up to capacity again. We had nice weather with just a little rain on Thursday morning.

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The Union Bay Campground:

We stayed in site #81. It was in the upper loop and behind the site was a steep wooded hill. The trees were thick and blocked most of the view of the lake.

Our site had a few small trees that gave some shade in the afternoon. The sites were all pretty close with little privacy.

Our site was right across the street from the only bathhouse in the campground. With a single bathhouse there were sometimes short lines for the showers in the morning. There was also a washer and dryer available here.

Looking down the road from our site. Most of the sites are in a fairly open grassy area.

In my opinion, site 18 was the best site in the entire campground. It has some privacy and sits just a few feet from the shore of Lake Superior. We originally had one of the lakefront sites reserved, but unfortunately had to change plans when our kids school schedule came out. By the time we rebooked all of the lower level sites were taken.

The red rocky shore along the campground.

Playing on the rocks.

At the entrance to the campground is the Porcupine Mountain Outpost store. This nice little store has camp supplies, firewood, ice cream and of course plenty of souvenirs.

After dinner we drove up to see the Lake of the Clouds overlook. It is hard to believe that you are still in Michigan when you see this area for the first time.

Reesey checking out the view.

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park Map – If the map does not show above click here

Campsites can be booked 6 months in advance and to get one of the lakefront sites you will have to book it almost exactly 6 months to the day, so plan accordingly. Porkies Campground Reservations >>

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Hiking the Escarpment Trail:

The next morning we went back to the Lake of the Clouds area and hiked out on the Big Carp River Trail. There were some really nice views looking down into the Carp River valley from the trail. After about 3/4 of a mile the girls were ready to turn around and head back.

When we got back to the Lake of the Clouds parking area Mom and kids headed back to the campsite for lunch and I set out the other direction on the Escarpment Trail.

The Escarpment Trail begins at the Lake of the Clouds parking area and then follows the ridge east, first above the Lake and then the Carp River valley.

Much of the trail is right on the edge of the rocky cliffs.

Nearing the end of the Lake of the Clouds.

The Escarpment Trail is advertised as one of the premier short hikes in all of Michigan. As you can see from the view above it definitely did not disappoint.

A panoramic shot from near the end of the Escarpment. To see the larger version of this photo click here >>

Looking down along the Carp River to the east.

Using the zoom lens to look back along the ridge.

Most of this hike is out in the open and with full sun and little breeze it got quite warm up here. Make sure to take a hat and plenty of water if the weather is going to be warm.

Just before the trail drops down from the Escarpment you get a view of Lake Superior on the horizon. From here the trail heads down through the woods and ends at the trailhead on M-107 at 4.3 miles from the Lake of the Clouds parking area.

With several photo stops the hike took about 2 hours to complete. I was able to get just enough cell phone service while I was still up on the Escarpment to call back to the campground and arrange my pickup at the trailhead. The only downside with this hike is that there is not really a good option to make this a loop. You could walk back on M-107, but I think if you can’t arrange transportation I would rather just retrace my steps along the Escarpment.

For more info see: Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park 3rd: A Backcountry Guide for Hikers, Backpackers, Campers and Winter Visitors

The black flies were getting bad at the campsite around dinner time so we packed up our food and headed to one of the beach picnic areas along M-107 near South Boundary Road. There is about 2 miles of nice sandy beach between the campground entrance and Silver City.

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The Presque Isle River Waterfalls Loop:

The next morning we took the 25 mile drive around the outside of the park on South Boundary Road to get to the Presque Isle River Scenic Area. We came here to hike the East and West River Trails. By using the suspension bridge shown above and the bridge on South Boundary Road the 2 trails can be combined into nice loop just over 2 miles long. The trail parallels one of the most spectacular sections of river in the state. In this 1 mile stretch before emptying into Lake Superior there are 3 major waterfalls and several other smaller drops. There are also large old growth trees and interesting rock formations. All this adds up to one of the best short hikes in the state of Michigan.

The amazing scenery starts off with the view of the kettles or potholes area from the suspension bridge.

Reid ready for a ride in the back carrier.

A family pic before heading up the bank to the East River Trail.

Looking upstream from just above the kettles area.

Manabezho Falls from the East River Trail.

Some rough climbing along the East side of the river.

Taking a break near Nawadaha Falls.

Nawadaha Falls from the East River Trail.

One of the old timers near the end of the East River Trail. (Sorry for the bad photo)

Going down a rough section on the West River Trail.

Nawadaha Falls from the other side of the Presque Isle River.

Yes, we let them dress themselves in the Porkies too.

The last section of the West River Trail has several sections of boardwalks and stairs near the end. The short 2 mile loop took our family just over 2 hours to complete. It could probably be done in just over an hour, but we decided to take it slow and enjoy the great views that we found at almost every step along the way.

After our hike we ate lunch under the picnic shelter by the parking area. We were getting low on supplies so we had to fire up the camp stove and make pancakes, eggs and sausage for lunch.

We first saw this hike in our Best Hikes with Children in Michigan book. It may be a little difficult for small children, although our 5 year old did great. Just plan on going slow and holding their hands in some spots.

After eating we went back across the suspension bridge and took the short trail down the rocky beach where the Presque Isle River empties into Lake Superior.

Reesey collecting rocks on the beach. It was a nice warm afternoon so we decided to cool off by going for a swim in Lake Superior. We didn’t have swim suits so we just went in our clothes. The water actually was not too cold here.

Reid enjoying his bath back at the campsite.

After the bath it was time for some milk and a relaxing video.

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Kayaking by the Union Bay Campground:

After dinner we walked down to the Lake. It was the calmest we had seen Lake Superior on this trip so I went back and got the kayak ready for an evening paddle.

Heading out around the corner from the campground.

One of the low cliff sections near the campground.

Most of the shoreline here is low red slabs of rock.

Paddling out into the setting sun.

Unfortunately the Porcupine Mountains State Park has very limited access for paddlers. You can put in at one of the Union Bay beach picnic areas off from M-107 on the way into the park or from the access next to site #29 in the campground. Heading west from here it is mile after mile of undeveloped shore with only a few wilderness cabins being the only sign of civilization. Someday we may have to come back for a cabin to cabin kayaking trip.

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A new family camping tradition was born on this trip: “Awkward S’mores” Regan originally meant to say unusual, but now awkward is the name that has stuck.

The next morning was cloudy with light rain. This was okay because we needed to drive over to the grocery store in Ontonagon to get supplies for the rest of the trip. On the way out stopped at the Porcupine Mountains Visitor Center to check out the displays and take advantage of the free WiFi access. After shopping we looked for a place to eat lunch in Ontonagon, but nothing looking real interesting so we headed back to the AmericInn in Silver City. We were the only ones in the restaurant, which was a little strange, but the food was good and the hotel overall seemed pretty nice.

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The Nonesuch Mine and Falls:

The weather was looking better by afternoon and while Reid napped the girls and I went to visit the Nonesuch Mine ruins and waterfall. The Nonesuch Mine was opened in 1866 and was given this name because it was thought to be “…One of the richest beds of copper bearing rock ever to be opened.” At it’s peak the town grew to a population of almost 300. However, over the years the mine was closed and reopened several times as it changed owners. In the end the copper here ended up being too costly to extract and the mine closed for good in 1913. Costing all of the different owners large financial losses.

Source: Fort Wilkins Natural History Association.

From the small parking lot off from South Boundary road it is about a 1/2 mile walk down a wide trail that was ounce the road to the town of Nonesuch.

One of the abandon mine shafts.

Stone walls that are left from the mining operation.

Just past the old mining area is the Little Iron River and the Nonesuch Falls. Unfortunately at this time of the season the falls were just couple small trickles running down the rock face.

With the low water levels we were able to climb around on the rocks. This is looking down stream from above the falls.

After hiking back from the Nonesuch Falls we drove back up to the Lake of the Clouds Overlook one more time.

Click here to see the larger version of this photo >>

I was hoping to get a few shots with the sun breaking through the clouds and hitting the lake, but it just was not happening. I decided to try few a long exposure back and whites instead.

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Summit Park Overlook:

The sky cleared again in the late afternoon so we drove over to the Summit Peak Area. It is a wide 1/2 mile trail that makes a steady climb up to the two Summit Peak overlooks.

Reesey striking a pose in the wind on the deck at the first overlook.

The view of the sea of trees from the first overlook.

Click here to see the larger version of this photo >>

From the first overlook it is just a short walk up the stairs and decking to the tower at the second overlook.

Getting ready to climb the tower. Reid was pretty excited by the strong wind at the top of the tower and kept jumping up and down in the backpack so I wasn’t able to get any good shots of the view. By the time we walked back down to the truck it was starting to sprinkle again. We decided that we would rather not cook and eat under the awning so we stopped at the AmericInn for the second time in the day for a pizza. The pizza was also very good and the service was ounce again very friendly.

After dinner things quickly dried out again and we were able to have a campfire.

Later in the evening we were treated to the best sunset of the trip.

A little later on the same night I captured my favorite shot from the trip.

In the morning we packed up camp and headed back to the Bay Furnace Campground in Christmas, MI for our last stop of this trip.

Continue along with us to our next stop at the Bay Furnace Campground >>

 

 

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