Petoskey State Park – June 21 to 24, 2015
It was an easy hour drive from Barnes County Park to our next stop at Petoskey State Park. We stayed here in 2014, but our stay was cut short to just a single night when our little buddy got sick. We decided to head back again this year to do some of the stuff we missed last time.
About Petoskey State Park: Petoskey State Park is located on the east end of Little Traverse Bay about half way between downtown Petoskey and Harbor Springs. The park has 180 modern campsites split between to campgrounds. The Dunes Campground appears to be older with smaller sites and tighter roads. This area area seems better suited to smaller campers and tents. Several of the sites here have more privacy compared to other State Parks. The Tannery Creek Campground is at the southern end of the park and has a little bigger sites in four “D” shaped loops that all have camping pads. These sites are better suited for larger RVs. There is access to the beach and the end of each loop in this campground.
The main attraction of Petoskey State Park is the 1 mile of beach that is a mix of sand and stones. The best sandy beach is at the north end of the park in the day use area. The park also has about 3 miles of hiking trails. Because of it’s location in one of the State’s most popular tourist areas the park is filled for most of the summer so you will want to make reservations well in advance.
We quickly settled back into Tannery Creek campsite #91 which is the same site we had on our previous stay. It is a nice site with trees on 2 sides and close to the stairs leading down to the campers beach.
The short trail through the trees bordering the site leads to this view of the dunes and Little Traverse Bay.
The Little Traverse Wheelway and Bear River Recreation Area:
After setting up camp and eating lunch we got the bikes out and rode the Little Traverse Wheelway into town.
It is an easy 2.5 mile ride from Petoskey State Park to the waterfall at Bayfront Park in town. Although, about half of way you are right along busy US 31.
After checking out the waterfall we continued on along the waterfront for another 0.5 mile until we crossed the bridge over the Bear River. Immediately after the bridge we took at left and continued across the street and under the bridge to the Bear River Valley Recreation Area.
Bear River Valley Recreation Area is a 1.5 mile long park that follows along the Bear River right in the heart of downtown Petoskey. The park recently underwent a multi-million dollar renovation including the development of Lower Michigan’s only whitewater kayaking park. There is also a new restroom building, river overlooks, hiking and biking trails.
We climbed up hill on the paved path for about a mile and then continued on a crushed stone path for another 0.5 mile where it ends at River Bend Park.
Stopping to check out the rapids on the way back down the trail. The water looked too low for kayakers while we were here.
The overlook near the beginning of the recreation area.
More on the Bear River at: visitpetoskeymichigan.com and michigantrailmaps.com
After riding through the recreation area we went back down to the waterfront and found a place to lock our bikes by the marina. From there it is a short walk up the stairs to downtown Petoskey.
After checking out the shops and running into some friends from back home it was time for an ice cream break.
Before getting back on the bikes we walked out along the docks to see the boats and the view of downtown.
…and also made a quick stop at the playground.
We needed a few things for dinner so we waited by the Little Traverse Wheelway mural while mom ran into the store.
After dinner we went down to the beach to play with one of our purchases from the toy store in town. With the high lake levels there was not much room right down by the water.
Searching for Petoskey Stones. It is best to look right along the edge of the water because the markings show the best when the stones are wet.
It cooled off quick and by the time the sun was setting over Little Traverse Bay we all had coats and longs pants on.
The Tunnel of Trees:
The next morning we loaded up the van and headed north on M-119 to drive the famous Tunnel of Trees.
Our first stop was about 4 miles north of Harbor Springs at the Thorne Swift Nature Preserve. This nice little preserve is 30 acres of cedar swamp and low dunes. There is 950 feet of Lake Michigan shoreline and 300 feet of this is open as a public beach. There is a $5 parking fee for non-township residents.
The property is accessed by 1.5 miles of well maintained hiking trails and boardwalks. From the Nature Center we stayed to the right and headed down the Cedar Trail.
The trails through the lowland cedars were very interesting with many different plants to looks at. We also kicked up a couple deer as we neared the lake access.
About 1/2 way through the loop there is a short set of stairs leading down to the beach. There are also outhouses right near the access for those who wish to spend more time on the beach…or had too much morning coffee.
After climbing back up from the beach we continued south on the Balsam Trail along the top of the dune. After about 500 feet there is a spur trail heading back toward the water and the Dune Observation Platform.
They must have problems with people not following rules…
Looping back to the Nature Center on the Balsam Trail.
After the short 1 mile hike we stopped in to see the Elizabeth Kennedy Nature Center.
The nature center is small, but the they pack a lot of nice exhibits inside. A restroom is also available.
The Thorne Swift Preserve was a nice 1 hour stop as we headed north. It is small, but everything is very well maintained. I would say that it is worth checking out at least once when touring the Tunnel of Trees.
The Thorne Swift Preserve on the Little Traverse Conservancy website.
Directions to the Thorne Swift Preserve.
We found this hike and many of our favorite short hikes in: Best Hikes with Children in Michigan
Back on M-119 and into the tunnel.
Our next stop was about 10 miles north at the Good Hart General Store. Since 1934 this little store has been serving customers in this Northern Michigan resort area. Originally it was a general grocery, butcher, and gas station. Today you will find a U.S. Post Office, deli, bakery, general groceries and souvenirs.
We picked up some snacks and tasty baked goods to go with our lunch.
More about the Good Hart General Store.
The Tunnel of Trees road technically ends in Cross Village, but we continued on along Lakeshore Drive to the Bliss Township Park which is just south of Wilderness State Park. This undeveloped park has several places to pull off the road and access the sandy beach along Sturgeon Bay.
There are not restrooms available here, but if you drive a few minutes further north there is a pit toilet at the hiking trailhead for Wilderness State Park. Watch for the gravel parking lot on the left right after the road make a sharp right hand turn at the border of the State Park.
We had a picnic lunch and then changed into our suits and went for a swim.
Looking out towards Waugoshance Point. It was a warm and humid afternoon, but unfortunately it looked like the evening showers in the forecast were going to be coming early.
Driving the M-119 Tunnel of Trees was still a good way to spend the day. I guess the Legs Inn will have to stay on our list for our next visit.
For more unique places in Michigan see:Michigan Off the Beaten Path
We spent the rest of the afternoon in the camper reading and waiting out the rain. For dinner we drove just outside the State Park to Petoskey Brewing Company.
The current version of Petoskey Brewing Company opened in 2012 in a 115 year old building that was built by the original Petoskey Brewing Company. The building is quite unique with 26 inch thick solid brick walls that stand 70 feet tall. From there webiste: ” The building owes its unique stature to the brewing practices of the late 19th century. With a total of four stories, it is over 70 feet tall, yet only 20 feet deep. The breweries of the day relied on gravity (thankfully, we have electric pumps today) to move water, wort and beer through the production process. The fourth-floor cupola likely contained a large water tank serving the brewery’s needs. The fire-brewing (probably wood-fired) took place on the third floor as evidenced by the chimney flues still visible today. Fermentation and packaging likely occurred on the 2nd and 1st floor as the production followed its way down.” One other interesting thing is that the location was originally chosen because of the artesian wells on the property and the brewery still uses pure artesion spring water for it’s beer.
We found Petoskey Brewing to have good food at a reasonable prices for this area and of course tasty beer.
Find more at: petoskeybrewing.com
Here is her recipe:
3 Marshmallows sliced
2 pieces of bread buttered on the outsides
A sprinkle of cinnamon
Put the 1st piece of buttered bread down with the butter facing the camp cooker. Then add the sliced marshmallows and a little sprinkle of cinnamon. Put the 2nd piece of bread on butter side up. Then cook it over the fire and enjoy!
Hiking at Petoskey State Park
The rain showers brought with them a big change in the weather and the next morning was cool and breezy. After breakfast we put on our sweatshirts and walked from our campsite to the trailhead for the Portage Trail.
The Portage Trail starts between 1st and 2nd loops in the Tannery Creek Campground.
Download and Print the Petoskey State Park Map.
Heading up into the woods.
Crossing through a sandy open dune area.
The Portage Trail has 2 different routes labeled as easy and hard. The easy trail is marked with yellow squares and the hard trail has yellow diamonds.
Climbing up on a dune ridge.
Nice section of white birch trees on the trail.
The trail followed a ridge along the east edge of the State Park. At times you could hear the traffic from M-119 and see some buildings including Petoskey Brewing Company through breaks in the leaves below.
Looking for treasure along the trail.
The steepest climb of the hike between where the trail loops out along the dune ridges.
After following the second ridge the trail starts a steady drop down to the Tannery Creek Campground road.
We had fairly low expectations for this trail because it is short not in any of our hiking guidebooks. I found it only briefly mentioned in: Michigan State Parks: A Complete Recreation Guide
It was supposed to be a beach day, but the afternoon was too cold. Instead we had some downtime just hanging around the campsite.
By late afternoon I needed to get moving so I loaded up the bike and drove up to the Kipp Road trailhead for the North Country Trail. I think the section of the NCT from Kipp Road all the way up to Wilderness State Park is open to mountain bikes. I only did a quick 10 mile ride up to Brutus Road and back. It starts out with a tough mile climb, but after this it was a nice single track ride through typical Northern Michigan forest. The recommended ride continues all the way on to Van Road for a one way ride of over 15 miles.
More information on this ride at MTB Project.
Directions to the Kipp Road trailhead. Parking is on the side of the road.
A little more biking around the Tannery Creek Campground loops after dinner.
In the evening it felt a little warmer in the sun. We went down by the water to relax while the kids combed the beach for more Petoskey Stones. It was a perfect way to spend our last night at Petoskey State Park.
Fat Bike Beach Ride Petoskey State Park
We only had a short drive to our next campsite at Young State Park so we could take our time packing up in the morning. The last thing on my list was to see how far you could ride a fat bike on the beach along Little Traverse Bay. I tried to get an early start to avoid all the morning beach walkers.
Along the shoreline there were several of these natural springs bubbling up through the sand.
About 2 miles from the Tannery Creek Campground the shoreline starts turning to the west and you run out of sand to ride. The blue roof building above is just before where I had to turn around. At first I thought this was a small park, but after looking at the map I think it is a private beach house for a nearby subdivision.
The end of the beach back at the south end of Petoskey State Park.
I wanted to get a few more miles in so I rode through the campground and picked up the connector trail to the Little Traverse Wheelway. I then crossed the road and picked up the Northwestern State Trail and took a nice ride to the Fish Hatchery in Alanson.
After I returned it was Mom’s turn to ride the rail trail while we packed up camp. The Petoskey Brewing Company building can be seen in the background.
The Northwestern State Trail on the Rail to Trails Conservancy website.
We made quick work of packing up so we decided to walk to the beach concession in the day use area for a treat. It is an easy 0.75 mile walk from the Tannery Creek Campground.
The Petoskey Beach Concession seemed a little sparse compared to many of the others we have been in. The had mainly drinks, snacks and t-shirts. This was okay because all the kids needed to be happy was some ice cream.
By the time we walked back mom was just leaving to get a shower at the boathouse. When she got back we hooked up the camper and headed south to out final destination of the trip at Young State Park.
Continue on with us to our next stop at Young State Park >>
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